Here is my installation of a LocoFi in an HO Sunset 4-8-2 brass engine and tender.
I set up and painted this loco years ago for DC-only operation but included connectors and a speaker in the tender to make it easy to convert to a DCC board in the boiler later. Recently I revised it to install the LocoFi 3 board in the tender just in case it needed a hole to receive a wifi signal. I had already epoxy glued a speaker in place so I used it instead of the LocoFi speaker. I try to make components removable so I drilled holes and cut slots in the tender floor for the wiring so I wouldn't have connectors visible between the loco and tender. Later, the visible wires were painted with Tamiya acrylic Rubber Black.
It has a NWSL 240-6 gearbox, an A-Line universal joint and a brass torque arm.
The loco has a 1.5 volt micro bulb for a headlight that I didn't want to change so I added a second bulb in series so they would operate on the LocoFi headlight circuit. For sound I used Audacity to edit a steam hiss with some clanking sounds for the startup, running and shutdown. I kept the volume low so it was just a placeholder instead of using the "silent" WAV file. When the LocoFi steam sound is released I'll upgrade to it. I'll probably also add a capacitor to power the board for one or two seconds -- thanks scott589 for the post above on that topic.
Here is my installation of a LocoFi in an HO Sunset 4-8-2 brass engine and tender.
I set up and painted this loco years ago for DC-only operation but included connectors and a speaker in the tender to make it easy to convert to a DCC board in the boiler later. Recently I revised it to install the LocoFi 3 board in the tender just in case it needed a hole to receive a wifi signal. I had already epoxy glued a speaker in place so I used it instead of the LocoFi speaker. I try to make components removable so I drilled holes and cut slots in the tender floor for the wiring so I wouldn't have connectors visible between the loco and tender. Later, the visible wires were painted with Tamiya acrylic Rubber Black.
It has a NWSL 240-6 gearbox, an A-Line universal joint and a brass torque arm.
The loco has a 1.5 volt micro bulb for a headlight that I didn't want to change so I added a second bulb in series so they would operate on the LocoFi headlight circuit. For sound I used Audacity to edit a steam hiss with some clanking sounds for the startup, running and shutdown. I kept the volume low so it was just a placeholder instead of using the "silent" WAV file. When the LocoFi steam sound is released I'll upgrade to it. I'll probably also add a capacitor to power the board for one or two seconds -- thanks scott589 for the post above on that topic.